PAMPLONA
If you’re reading this, it means that I survived the running of the bulls.
Even luckier, I came out of it completely unscathed.
When I was toying with the idea of checking out the San Fermin festival in Pamplona, I decided early on there was no way I was going to put my frail petite body in the path of six pissed off 600-kilogram bulls.
I can’t pinpoint the exact moment when I changed my mind – it might have been the night Spain won the world cup and all the honking outside kept me awake and thinking that at least saying you ran with the bulls was worth experiencing.
And this morning, I fucking did it.
Like Tom Cruise – into the danger zone.
There are a whole list of rules to follow. One of them is get a good night’s sleep. But after two hours, I woke up and just started worrying and strategizing. It’s like planning for a sport that’s completely unpredictable. No one knows what’s going to happen, if a bull is going to start charging people behind or what. You can only play it smart and as things happen.
On the last day of San Fermin, apparently they bring out the Con Dias, which basically is a herd of pissed off bulls.
At San Sebastian, I met a family from California. The dad, Leon, is an old veteran at bull running – or outrunning, rather – with roughly 20 years under his belt.
I am so thankful I met him.
He told me that he and his buddies would be running again today and to meet him on Santo Domingo St.
But when I went downtown at 6:30 a.m., I couldn’t find him. So I talked to some other people who did the run and tried getting some tips. The police started herding people out of the main streets and closed the big steel gates.
All the gates shut all the non-runners out by 7:15 a.m.
I thought, Oh fuck. Did I just get myself out of the race?
In a panic, I shouted at the policeman: “Ingles?” and started to make the running motion. He pointed to me to go around. I snuck under the wooden barriers in the next block and whew, was back in the game.
And that’s where I ran into Leon.
“Boy, am I happy to see you!” I said.
He calmed me down and gave me some wise advice.
“Go up halfway on Estafeta and stay perfectly still when the bulls are coming,” he said. “Let them pass. And then when they do, if you want to get into the stadium, run after them.”
He suggested a storefront to keep my back to, gave me a kiss on the cheek and said, “Good luck.”
That was the last time I saw Leon.
That sounded worse than intended – I’m assuming he made it out OK and went on to party at a bar at 8:30 a.m. once the run was done.
His advice was reassuring but it still didn’t undo the tight knots in my stomach. I felt my heart racing.
He told me, “Take the fear in with you into the stadium along with the bulls. That’s what it’s all about.”
Five minutes until the first rocket was set to fire.
Everyone with their red hankerchiefs and white ensembles start jogging on the spot and stretching.
8 a.m.
We hear the blast of the first rocket.
That means on your mark.
The second rocket fires immediately after signaling all the bulls are out of the pen. The second one follows that mean that bulls are now running up the steep hill.
In other words, move your ass.
One thing I learned from watching the run from a balcony the day before is these bulls are fast. They might not look speedy on a television screen, but I assure you are powerful, energetic and terrifying when their horns are down and aimed in your direction.
Listen for the hooves. Watch the crowd. If they’re snapping pictures like crazy and screaming, the bulls are not far behind.
And a minute later, I saw everyone running towards me. In the centre of several hundred people were four beasts stampeding while some people were taking shelter in other storefronts; others staying directly in their path, but trying to dodge them.
As instructed, I let them pass. An Asian guy who had been running metres before me came up beside me to take shelter. I put my arm out against his chest so he wouldn’t fall into the hordes of sprinters.
Then we took off running after them in hopes of getting to the collesium. Only problem was many people, myself included, didn’t factor in the two missing bulls, which were behind everyone. The two strays I found out did a lot of damage back there. One of them gored a guy wearing a Santa hat against a barricade.
Third rocket – all bulls are now in the building.
Then finally, fourth rocket – all bulls are safely in the corral of Plaza de Toros. On average it takes about 4 mins. from the first rocket to the last.
The crowd was segregated through a metal fence and many of us didn’t get to make it into the colisium, which is a bit of a shame.
I saw ambulance take someone away on a stretcher.
But it was definitely a rush. I popped into a café where spectators watched recaps of the run. There, I saw the Santa guy getting beaten up and another guy I saw earlier on before the rockets fired.
I would do it again. It was a complete thrill and maybe next time I’d get a bit braver and run alongside the bulls instead of after them.
Pamplona has been great to me.
I look at this white San Fermin shirt that I’ve been wearing for the past three days, stained with sangria and red wine from Tuesday night’s bullfight, I look forward to my new encounter with this beautiful city with six bulls all charging down 10-metre-wide alleyways.
Just keep in mind they don’t call it “dead man’s corner” for nothing.